The luxury watch industry has increasingly embraced the allure of ultra-black designs, especially in the realm of dials. This trend towards minimalism and stealth is not just a stylistic choice; it signifies a broader evolution in watchmaking, showcasing technical prowess and a fascination with innovation. From models like A. Lange & Söhne’s LANGE 1 to contemporary pieces from brands such as Hublot and Bell & Ross, the appeal of ultra-black watches lies in their ability to combine subtlety with sophistication and functionality, to deliver timepieces that are both striking and enduring.
A. Lange & Söhne: LANGE 1
The LANGE 1 exemplifies the core values of A. Lange & Söhne with its unique design, sophisticated movement, and artisanal craftsmanship. To celebrate its anniversary, the brand has introduced two new limited editions of the LANGE 1, each restricted to 300 pieces. One of which is crafted in 950 platinum with a striking black onyx dial, marking the first time this rare gemstone has been used in a LANGE 1 watch with its captivating jet-black shimmering surface.
The dial design contributes to the LANGE 1’s harmonious aesthetic, featuring Roman numerals and lancet-shaped appliqués. The hour and minute displays are positioned on the left, while the outsize date, power-reserve indicator, and subsidiary seconds dial are aligned on the right, following an imaginary vertical axis. The dimensions of these elements adhere to the principles of the golden ratio, ensuring an enduring visual balance that remains relevant three decades after its introduction.
Hublot Big Bang Original Black Magic
The Hublot Big Bang Original Black Magic watch features a case referenced as 301.CM.130.RX, measuring 44 mm in size. It is crafted from satin-finished and polished black ceramic, giving it a sleek and modern appearance. The bezel is made from vertical satin-finished black ceramic and is secured with six H-shaped titanium screws, enhancing both durability and style. The dial showcases a striking carbon fiber design, adding an element of sophistication to the watch. At its heart lies the HUB4100 self-winding chronograph movement, which boasts a power reserve of 42 hours for reliable performance.
This timepiece is water-resistant up to 100 meters — or 10 ATM — making it suitable for a variety of aquatic activities. The crystal is made from sapphire and includes an anti-reflective treatment to ensure clarity and visibility under various lighting conditions. For comfort and versatility, the watch is equipped with black structured rubber straps, complemented by a microblasted black ceramic and black-plated stainless steel deployant buckle clasp, ensuring a secure and stylish fit on the wrist.
Norqain Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm
The Independence Skeleton Chrono is powered by the NORQAIN 8K Manufacture Calibre, an exclusive high-performance skeletonised flyback chronograph movement inspired by the world’s highest mountains. This model is the first chronograph in the Independence collection. Initially, only 300 8K Calibres have been commissioned for the Independence Skeleton Chrono Steel, with a second batch expected in time for Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025.
The satin-finished skeletonized black dial exudes sophistication, complemented by a white minute scale on a black outer ring. Black counters at the 6 and 12 o’clock positions add depth to the design, while the white NORQAIN logo stands out against the dark backdrop. The diamond-cut flat indexes are gold-plated and filled with white Super-LumiNova®, ensuring visibility in low light. The hour and minute hands are diamond-cut, faceted, gold-plated, and similarly filled with white Super-LumiNova®. Additionally, the black-plated diamond-cut central chronograph hand and gold-plated small counter hands enhance the watch’s elegant appearance. The timepiece is presented with an integrated black rubber strap featuring a “Milanese” pattern and secured with a stainless steel pin buckle. Alternatively, it can be fitted with an integrated 316L stainless steel bracelet, complete with a folding clasp and quick micro-adjustment for optimal comfort.
Bell & Ross: BR 03-94 Blacktrack
A joint venture saw the BR 03-94 BLACKTRACK chronograph from Bell & Ross pair perfectly with the Blacktrack BT-06 motorcycle, co-imagined by designer Sacha Lakic and Bell & Ross in October 2023. More than just a collaboration, it is the extension of a unique machine into a new Bell & Ross instrument watch. For its new instrument watch, Bell & Ross returns to its love for motorcycles and continues with an exploration of dynamic shapes. Inspired by the avant-garde lines of stealth aircraft, the new BR 03-94 BLACKTRACK chronograph watch is the perfect match for the Blacktrack BT-06 motorcycle, created jointly by Sacha Lakic and the watch brand’s designers.
Once again, the iconic Bell & Ross design is manifested in a surprising way with the new BR 03-94 BLACKTRACK chronograph, featuring a 42mm case in matte black ceramic that is water-resistant to 100 metres. Its appearance is still inspired by the world of aeronautics. This creative source can also be found in some elements of the design of the Blacktrack BT-06 motorcycle, whose faceted angles are a direct reference to the technical design of stealth aircraft. Bikers will notice the motor-inspired black calfskin strap right away, hemmed with a red edge and lined with high-resistance technical material. The strap closes with a steel pin buckle with black PVD coating, while the quilting on the strap itself is a nod to the motorbike saddle covers and rider’s suits.
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Watch
TUDOR’s Black Bay Ceramic model is a remarkable timepiece that exemplifies the brand’s technical prowess and commitment to innovation. This exceptional watch features a matte black ceramic case, complemented by a Manufacture Calibre and a Master Chronometer certification from METAS, underscoring its precision and reliability.
The design of the Black Bay Ceramic showcases a modern aesthetic with its monobloc case, meticulously crafted from sand-blasted matte black ceramic that enhances durability while offering a sleek, high-tech appearance. The case’s bevelled edges are mirror-polished, creating a striking contrast against the matte surfaces and accentuating the watch’s bold lines. Additionally, the rotating bezel insert is crafted from black ceramic with a sunray satin finish, further emphasizing the luxurious feel of the piece while providing a subtle sheen that catches the light beautifully. The use of black throughout the watch not only contributes to its sophisticated look but also reinforces TUDOR’s dedication to contemporary design and craftsmanship.
Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow
The CHRONOMASTER Revival Shadow draws inspiration from a little-known Zenith chronograph prototype from the 1970s, which showcased a distinctive blackened case. This modern interpretation replicates that stealthy aesthetic with a fully matte titanium case, enhancing its contemporary appeal while maintaining a nod to its vintage roots. The dial features a striking combination of black and grey hues, deliberately omitting the seconds track and date window, which is an unusual choice for an El Primero watch, further contributing to its minimalist charm.
The choice of matte black not only creates a sleek and modern look but also serves to emphasize the watch’s technical sophistication. The subdued finish helps to draw attention to the intricacies of the dial’s design, allowing the unique textures and details to shine through without distraction. The watch is completed with a black strap that mimics the appearance of cordura fabric, adding an element of rugged elegance and ensuring a comfortable fit on the wrist.
Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon
It was the adventures and the accomplishments of the Apollo 8 astronauts that inspired the all-black, ceramic Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon, but it is the mystique of the Earth’s nightlight and its ever-changing yet constant presence that has spurred the creation of the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon “Black Black”. This 44.25 mm model has a polished and brushed black ceramic casebody, a matt black ceramic dial and a black ceramic clasp on a black coated nylon fabric strap.
Giving this model its nickname are its brushed blackened Moonwatch-style hands and blackened applied indexes — all of which are coated with black Super-LumiNova. The familiar sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock are also matt black and the black ceramic bezel has a black lacquered tachymeter scale. At its heart is the OMEGA Co-Axial calibre 9300.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light & Shadow
Since its debut in 1975, the Laureato has beautifully blended contrasting elements. The Laureato Absolute Light & Shade is encased in metallised sapphire crystal, seamlessly combining curves and lines, modernity and tradition, as well as aesthetics and functionality.
The in-house movement — the Calibre GP01800-1143 — features an octagonal mainplate, paying homage to the iconic bezel of the Laureato. This skeletonised movement showcases a stunning array of components that are typically concealed, offering a captivating view of its intricate curves and lines, enhanced by interplay of light and shadow. It includes a variable-inertia balance, where the hairspring length remains constant while the inertia weights on the balance wheel spokes can be adjusted to alter the rate, providing improved stability and shock resistance. The openworked gold oscillating weight invites wearers to appreciate the beautifully finished bridges beneath it. True to Girard-Perregaux’s commitment to exquisite craftsmanship, the NAC-treated bridges and mainplate feature a combination of sandblasting, traits-tirés, circular satin finishing, and bevelling, complete with 55 hand-polished inner angles.
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